Smoky pork shoulder tacos

Method

1. Begin by making the marinade. Put a large frying pan over a medium heat, then add the dried chillies and garlic cloves. Toast for 3 minutes, turning occasionally, until the dried chillies have puffed up slightly and the garlic has started to blacken in a few places. Add the cumin seeds and toast for 1 more minute. Remove and discard the stalks from the chillies. Put the chillies in a food processor with the toasted garlic, cumin and the rest of the marinade ingredients. Whizz until smooth.
2. Pat the pork dry, then use a very sharp knife to cut deep slashes all over the skin and flesh. Sit the pork in a dish, then pour the marinade over and rub it in well. Cover and put in the fridge overnight.
3. The next day, bring the pork out of the fridge to come to room temperature. Light a lidded barbecue for indirect cooking (with the coals to one side and the food not directly over them) at about 160°C. (If the weather’s not playing ball, heat the oven to 160°C fan/gas 4.) Lift the pork out of the marinade, wiping off most of what clings to it, then put it in the barbecue or oven, skin-side up. Add some smoking chips to the barbecue if you have them, then close the lid and cook for 4-5 hours. (You might need to top up the coals.) Every hour or so, brush the pork with the leftover marinade.
4. Meanwhile, cover the sliced red onion in the lime juice, add a pinch of salt and set aside to pickle. Make a pico de gallo: mix the chopped onion, tomatoes, coriander and jalapeño (if using), then stir in a pinch of salt and a splash of the lime juice from the pickled red onion.
5. When the pork is ready, it will have a black ‘bark’ around the outside but be meltingly soft inside. Lift onto a board, remove the skin, then slice or shred into bite-size pieces (discard any large pieces of fat or gristle). Bring the meat to the table with the pink pickled onions, pico de gallo, tacos and hot sauce, then let everyone help themselves.