Ragù and blue cheese baked pasta

Method

1. Take the meat for the ragù out of the fridge and let it come up to room temperature, then season with salt and pepper. Heat the rapeseed oil in a large, flameproof casserole. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the meat in batches (don’t overcrowd the dish) and fry over a medium-high heat, turning once, until browned all over. Transfer the browned meat to a plate, leaving the pan on the hob but reducing the heat to medium.
2. Heat the oven to 120°C/fan100°C/gas ½. Add the onions, five-spice powder, celery, carrot and porcini to the pot and cook for 10 minutes, stirring, until softened and golden.
3. Return all the meat to the casserole, pour in the milk and add the porcini soaking liquid. Bring to a simmer, then cover with a lid and cook in the oven for 3-4 hours until the meat is tender and falling apart.
4. About an hour before the end of the meat cooking time, make the tomato sauce. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a large pan, then fry the speck/pancetta over a medium-high heat until it begins to crisp. Add the shallots and cook for 5-10 minutes until soft and translucent. Add the garlic to the pan and cook for 5 minutes more. Add the white wine and bubble to reduce by half, then add the tomatoes, herbs and sugar. Season, then simmer very gently for 30 minutes or until the liquid is reduced by half.
5. When the meat is tender, remove the casserole from the oven and leave to rest for 15 minutes. Lift the meat out of the liquid into a bowl, using tongs or a slotted spoon, then put the casserole on the hob and simmer until the liquid has almost completely evaporated.
6. Remove and discard the bones from the cooked veal. Return all the meat to the casserole and shred it using 2 forks. Pour over the tomato sauce, then simmer for 20 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary (see tips).
7. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, then add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain, reserving a ladleful of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, make the cheese sauce by mixing all the ingredients with a balloon whisk in a large bowl until almost smooth.
8. To assemble, mix the warm pasta with the tomato ragù, adding some of the reserved water if the mixture is too thick. Transfer to a 2.5 litre ovenproof dish, then spoon over the cheese sauce and sprinkle with the parmesan. Cook under a hot grill for 5 minutes or until the top is browned and glazed, then serve.