Onion bhajis with yogurt and goat’s cheese dip

Method

1. Put the cumin, coriander and peppercorns in a small pan set over a low heat. Toast for 1-2 minutes, then crush in a pestle and mortar.
2. In a bowl, combine the sliced onions, garlic, gram flour, curry powder, crushed spices, turmeric, onion/nigella seeds and salt. Add 5 tbsp cold water, then mix well with a wooden spoon or your hands (they’re usually the best tools).
3. Pour the sunflower oil into a deep heavy-based saucepan to a depth of 8-10cm, then set over a medium-high heat. The oil should be hot but not overly so, to allow the bhajis to cook through without the outside burning. Test the temperature by dropping a small pinch of the batter into the oil: it should fizz and bubble, and crisp within a minute.
4. Drop loose dessertspoonfuls of the mixture carefully into the hot oil. Fry, turning if necessary, for about 2 minutes on each side. Use a slotted spoon or frying basket to lift the fritters out onto a plate lined with kitchen paper.
5. To make the dip, put the yogurt and goat’s cheese in a bowl and mix well. Add the garlic, chilli (if using), onion/nigella seeds and chives. Season with salt and pepper, then stir well (see Make Ahead).
6. Arrange the bhajis on a large warmed serving platter and sprinkle with salt. Serve with the dip alongside.