Hungarian goulash

Method

1. Put a large saucepan (big enough to hold all the ingredients or see Lucas’ tips) on the hob and add a splash of oil. Add the pancetta and cook over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes until it has released its fat and started to brown, then mix in the onions and peppers and cook over the heat for about 15 minutes, stirring often, until the vegetables are soft and sweet.
2. Toss the meat with the flour and some salt and pepper and set aside.
3. Add the garlic, cloves, juniper berries, bay and most of the thyme leaves to the vegetables in the pan, then add the meat and stir over the heat for another 5-10 minutes until the flesh has lost its redness. Mix in the tomato purée, paprika, cayenne and caraway seeds, then stir for 2-3 minutes more.
4. Pour in the red wine, vinegar and stock. The meat should be just covered when pushed down into the liquid. Season well and cover the surface with a piece of baking paper cut to just fit inside the pan. Bring everything to a simmer, then cover the pan with a lid and cook over the lowest heat for 2¼-2¾ hours – you want a gentle bubble, no more – or until the meat is on the verge of collapse (check with a fork).
5. Remove the baking paper and season generously – it’s a big pot, and salt will bring the flavours together – then break up the bits of meat slightly so the chunks start to separate into threads and shreds. Stir in 4 tbsp of the soured cream.
6. Ladle the goulash into bowls, then sprinkle with the remaining thyme. Serve with the gnocchi and extra soured cream dusted with paprika.