Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s Christmas pudding

Method

1. For the booze-soaked fruit, put all the ingredients in a large bowl, stir, then cover and leave to soak overnight or, better still, for 24 hours, with a couple of good stirs.
2. The next day, sift the flour, baking powder if using, and spices into a large mixing bowl. Rub in the suet or butter with your fingertips, then stir in the breadcrumbs and sugar. Beat in the eggs, then stir in the soaked fruit and the remaining pudding ingredients except the butter. Use to fill the prepared basin/s.
3. Cover the basin/s with a layer of buttered baking paper, then a layer of foil, both pleated in the middle to allow for expansion. Tie in place with string around the rim, leaving an extra length as a handle. Lower the basin into a large saucepan with an upturned plate in the bottom and pour in boiling water to come halfway up the sides. Put the lid on and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 3 hours, topping up the water as necessary (don’t let the pan boil dry).
4. Lift out the basin and set aside to cool. Once cold, replace the baking paper and foil with fresh coverings of the same. Store in a cool larder or cupboard for several weeks. If you want to keep the pudding (or one of them) for longer, you’ll need to ‘feed’ it with brandy or rum. A few days after cooking, prick the surface of the pud with a skewer and pour over 3 tbsp of your chosen spirit. Re-cover and leave in a cool dark place for up to a year.
5. On Christmas Day you’ll need to steam the pudding(s) for a further 1-1½ hours, depending on size. Discard the paper and foil covers. Cut a circle of baking paper to lay on top of the pudding and a second, twice the size, to go over the basin with a pleat i the middle. Cover with a piece of pleated foil, secure around the basin rim with string, then create a string handle. Steam in a pan half-filled with boiling water (as above), regularly topping up.
6. Lift out the basin and turn the pudding out onto a warmed plate. Flame with warmed brandy and serve with brandy sauce  or custard.