Citrus and fennel cured salmon with horseradish

Method

1. Two days before you want to eat, put the peppercorns and fennel seeds in a small food processor or pestle and mortar and grind to a coarse powder. Stir in the sugar, salt and citrus zests to make a dampish yellow cure with a gritty consistency.
2. Put a double thickness of cling film on the work surface. Spread half the curing mixture in the centre, so it’s the same size as the piece of salmon. Put the salmon on top. Spread the remaining cure over the top, then wrap the fish tightly in the cling film. Put on a baking sheet, then put another sheet/tray/board on top. Weigh it down with a couple of tins or kitchen scale weights, then put in the fridge. Leave it there for up to 48 hours, turning halfway through, then wipe off the cure and pat the fish dry.
3. For the dressing, mix together the horseradish and mustard in a bowl, then stir in the buttermilk and dill. Season and set aside.
4. To serve, finely slice the salmon, then lay on a large serving plate. Sprinkle a little of the lemon juice over the salmon, then drizzle over some of the horseradish dressing. Dot with sprigs of watercress and a sprinkle of chives. Add a trickle of olive oil, then a grind of black pepper.