‘Carbonara’ scrambled eggs

Method

1. Put the butter and pancetta (or guanciale) in a medium saucepan, then put it over a low heat. Gently cook for the pancetta for 5 minutes, rendering out the fat, until it begins to crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and put on a plate, keeping as much fat in the pan as possible.
2. Whisk the eggs with a small pinch of salt, the milk (or cream) and the parmesan. Pour it into the same pan you cooked the pancetta in, add a very generous grinding of black pepper, then give it another whisk to distribute the rendered fat through the eggs. Put over a low heat and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the eggs are almost (but not completely solid). You want, soft, thick, fluffy curds, rather than lots of firm little pieces, so fold the mixture rather than stirring it vigorously (a silicone spatula is a huge help here). Tip in the pancetta and set aside; the residual heat will finish cooking the eggs.
3. Meanwhile, toast the bread and spread with a little more butter. Put the toast on plates and spoon the scrambled eggs over the top, finishing with more grated parmesan and a final grind of pepper.