Valentine Warner’s chicken thighs with port and madeira

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/fan160°C/gas 4. Melt the butter with the oil in a shallow ovenproof pan or casserole that has a lid. Season the thighs well, then add to the pan/casserole in batches and brown all over, taking care not to burn the butter. If the chicken doesn’t sizzle on entering the pan, it isn’t hot enough.
2. Transfer the chicken to a plate, then drain off all but 2 tbsp of the fat. Add the mushrooms and their liquid with the bay leaves, then simmer rapidly. When all the liquid has evaporated, keep cooking the mushrooms until they begin to brown. Reduce the heat slightly, then add the shallots and cook for a further 6 minutes, stirring often, or until tender but not coloured.
3. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or so. Pour in the madeira and port, then turn up the heat and bubble until the liquid reduces and becomes semi-syrupy (there should be about 6 tbsp in the pan/casserole). 
4. Return the chicken to the pan/casserole, skin-side up, and add the cream and stock. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then transfer to the oven with the lid on for 40 minutes or until cooked through.
5. If the sauce is too runny, remove the lid, transfer the chicken to a plate and cover to keep warm. Put the pan/casserole on the hob and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer for 4-5 minutes until reduced. Add a squeeze of lemon juice (just enough to give the sauce an edge but not overpower it) and stir for 30 seconds or so, then turn off the heat. Stir in most of the chopped parsley, return the chicken thighs to the pan and season well.
6. Divide among bowls, scatter over the last of the parsley, then serve with fried bread triangles, if you like.