Pulled pork buns with fennel and gooseberry ketchup

Method

1. Pat the pork shoulder dry and put it on a deep tray. Grind the fennel seeds, salt and peppercorns in a pestle and mortar, then mix with the garlic and lemon zest. Rub this mixture all over the flesh of the pork, avoiding the skin. Cut half a fennel into wedges and arrange them underneath the pork. If possible, leave the pork uncovered in the fridge overnight to dry out.
2. Heat the oven to 220°C fan/gas 9. Put the tray in the oven and cook for 30 minutes, then pour in the cider, cover with foil and reduce the heat to 160°C fan/gas 4. Cook for another 3 hours or until the meat is falling apart.
3. Meanwhile, make the ketchup. Finely chop half the remaining fennel and fry in a splash of oil until soft (about 4 minutes). Add the gooseberries, most of the lemon juice, sugar and 50ml water, bring to a simmer, then gently cook for 20 minutes until the berries have completely collapsed. Transfer to a blender and whizz into a smooth ketchup. It will taste sour, but when paired with the fatty pork, it works perfectly.
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4. Finely slice the remaining fennel, using a mandoline if you have one, then dress in the remaining lemon juice and season.
5. When the pork is ready, remove the crackling and roughly chop into shards. Shred the meat using 2 forks, finely chop the roasted fennel below it and mix together in a bowl. Reduce any remaining liquid in the pan for 5 minutes, then stir it into the pork.
6. To serve, toast the brioche buns, then spread one side with mayonnaise (if using) and the other with the ketchup. Add a pile of pork, some shards of crackling and a handful of fennel slaw, then put the lid on.