Andi Oliver’s Brunkål (Swedish-style cabbage)

delicious. tips

1. Andi says: “The cabbage is earthy and sweet, and cooking it is all about ritual. You can start it the day before, and you return time and time again to the roasting tray of slowly caramelising cabbage, stock, butter and syrup: basting and turning and turning and basting throughout the evening while you cook other, bigger, more showy things; pouring wine, chatting, laughing, playing Nat King Cole, Dinah Washington, Sam Cooke, and relaxing into those long, magical Christmas cooking days.

   My Swedish best friend, Neneh Cherry, taught me this dish so long ago I can’t even remember the first time we made it; I have a feeling we were at our friend Grandma Donna’s house in Somerset, or maybe at Neneh’s family home in Skåne, southern Sweden. What stays with me is the kinship, intimacy, gentle hours passing, wrapping presents and telling stories. This dish is family: my Neneh, my sisterwoman, my dear, darling friend. Every bite is suffused with the countless steps we’ve taken together over all the years we have known each other. Food IS love.”

2. Once cooked, cool the cabbage completely and keep covered in the fridge for up to a day. Reheat in a low oven to serve, adding a little extra stock to moisten it if it’s dry.

3. Save the tougher stalks of the cabbages to use for something else. Andi likes to poach them with cream and thyme, then whizz them to a purée.

   To make the brunkål vegan, use oil instead of butter and substitute the chicken stock for a good vegetable one.