“I spend quite a lot on pasta”: How Italian chef Danilo Cortellini really eats

Pick ‘n’ mix

What’s your hot drink of choice?
Espresso macchiato (with a splash of frothy milk), no sugar. My time living in the UK has conditioned me to always have a splash of milk with my coffee – sometimes oat milk. I tend to stop at three a day.

What’s your most common food craving?
The easy answer is a comforting bowl of bucatini all’amatriciana, but I have to admit I’m also a big fan of Japanese cuisine and often find myself craving a bowl of soba noodles in a clear umami dashi.

What do you cook when you have no time or little energy?
As stereotypical as it sounds for a chef, I always try to put some effort in. If it’s a focaccia sandwich, I want the focaccia to be warm and the mortadella freshly sliced… Or I might make an under-15-minute pasta, like aglio e olio or cacio e pepe.

If you had to say goodbye to one classic Italian dish and never have it again, what would it be?
I’m reluctant to answer… I’m not a fussy eater! But if I have to lose one dish: lampredotto from Florence. It’s basically cow’s stomach slow-cooked and served in a bun. If not done right the texture is weird.

What’s the best pasta shape, in your opinion?
I love them all, but my heart says spaghetti – perhaps spaghetti alla chitarra (squared-shaped spaghetti handmade with a stringed instrument that looks like a guitar).

 

What food/ingredient can you not help spending money on?
This is a delicate topic! Like many chefs I’ve developed a palate for expensive ingredients: anything from truffle to red prawns. Even pasta I spend quite a lot on. I strongly invite those who can afford it to invest in the quality of their pasta – not all packets are the same.

What are your thoughts on eating in front of the TV – or in bed?
I was brought up in a typical Italian household, where Nonna or Mamma would cook meals and we enjoyed them together. Mealtimes are moments of togetherness, sharing what we love with who we love. I’m not saying that I’ve never eaten in front of the TV when I am by myself, but we try to eat as a family with the kids. Eating in bed is just plain wrong – even breakfast!

The main meal

What dish is most nostalgic of your childhood?
It must be timballo alla teramana, a lasagne-lookalike baked dish that is one-of-a-kind. Instead of pasta, very thin crespelle (aka savoury crepes) are layered with tomato sauce, mini meatballs, mozzarella and grated cheese, often with seasonal vegetables too. No bechamel. It’s unique to the area of Abruzzo I was brought up in and my nonna used to make it when we went to visit. Now my mum holds the sceptre of responsibility, she makes the best timballo to date. I’m not able to better hers yet.

What did young Danilo always want to add to the shopping basket?
Young Danilo was a big pasta lover (I still am) and as a child tagliatelle was his favourite thing in the world, especially if dressed in a rich meaty tomato sauce. I’ve also always liked pecorino and other Italian hard cheeses.

Your new cookbook is called Better Than Nonna. Are you nervous about that title?
I wanted to provoke and make readers question what they know about Italian food and culture. Is it risky? Yes, I’ve had some backlash on social media already, but anyone who digs a little deeper will soon realise that my approach to Italian food comes from appreciating what all nonnas have done.

I truly love traditional Italian food – in fact, I have a chapter dedicated to ‘Nonna’s untouchables recipes’ – but I invite readers to be inspired by traditions and create their own. The book is for everybody who loves Italian food but is a little tired of the same old story, that’s been told hundreds of times.

What are examples of some of the more controversial updates you’ve made in your recipes?
I wouldn’t call them updates but rather ‘twists’… The ‘foolproof’ carbonara is always a hit, while I particularly like the grana padano cheese ice cream with caramelised figs. The one I look forward to seeing reactions to is the pineapple pizza, which takes a different approach to this much-debated dish…

In your career at the Italian Embassy, what was the most elaborate meal you created?
There were definitely many labour-intensive menus and intricate dishes along the way. Last summer we catered for a party of 1,720 during Italy’s National Day celebrations! Once I was given only a few hours’ notice to cook an intimate dinner for a current prime minister (I’m not telling you of which country), a former prime minister (of another country) and a handful of diplomats. I defrosted my multicoloured pasta and made tortellini with burrata, roast turbot with asparagus and yogurt mousse with mango. They didn’t come to visit for the food, but I like to think I helped the discussion at the table!

 

How does your work affect how you eat?
Always being in the kitchen and around food can take some of the enjoyment out of it, so you have to be careful. I often find myself craving easy meals, simple flavours and trusted pairings. After a long service, give me a good focaccia with prosciutto and a chunk of cheese and I’ll be happy. With a glass of vino, please.

What’s the secret to the success of your recipe videos?
This is tricky. I like to think the quality of my recipes and the little touches I add to elevate viewers’ Italian cooking at home. Also: my most successful videos have no voice recording, just chilled background music, the sounds of the kitchen and a comfortable pace. In a world where most people think that being the loudest or the craziest or most extravagant is the key to success, being quiet and letting the food do the talking is refreshing to many.

My bite-size week

What was the best thing you ate last week?
Mum made her famous ‘loaded parmigiana’ last week: parmigiana with bolognese instead of tomato sauce and pancetta too! Out of the ordinary and over the top but delicious. I’ve included the recipe in my new cookbook.

What food/drink did you buy on the go?
When I travel, I try to pack a homemade sandwich to go, exactly like my mum used to do when I was little. Failing that I admit that Joe & The Juice make decent sandwiches – my wife is fond of their ‘tunacado’.

What was your treat of the week?
After a long week, playing with the kids and eating pizza (often made by us) with a beer is all I want to do.

Where did you shop for food – and what did you buy?
I’m lucky enough to have a farmers’ market every Monday just outside my house; it’s so great to be able to grab fresh fruits and veg grown locally, directly from the producers. Plus I can find local cheeses, meats and even ready-meals – it really is a chef’s dream.

What did you do to relax?
With work commitments recently it’s proven difficult to switch off. A few times a month I go for a jog by the beach, to get out of the kitchen and away from screens. My dog also helps! Also, I really relax washing dishes after a long day of cooking – how handy is that?

Danilo’s second cookbook, Better Than Nonna (Meze Publishing £25) is out 18 November. Follow Danilo on Instagram.

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