Gennaro Contaldo on ragù secrets and Amalfi coast magic

Why do you think people are so enchanted with Italy?
Italy is a beautiful peninsula. It’s in the middle of two seas – the Adriatic and the Tyrrhenian – the mountains are full of snow and forest, the coastline is spectacular and the air is good. In all the regions, people are attached to the land. Italy is like a museum full of history, emotion and culture. And we’re so inventive… I’m Italian, so I would say that!

What were your first impressions of British food?
When I first came to England, I worked in a fish and chip restaurant in Tooting Bec. I’d been in the kitchen since I was about 10, but I had to get used to the fish being cooked in a strange way; the chips – my goodness – and then you’d have a cup of tea with it! But I loved England from the minute I arrived. I was young, adventurous. There were The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, freedom from your mum and dad. You could be yourself.

What makes Italian cuisine so distinctive – and revered?
Italian food is simple. It’s the ‘cucina povera’, which sometimes means you can’t afford too much, but it also means simple, noble ingredients. You could pick dandelion leaves and that would make a great salad. Everything in season tastes good. These days, of course, you can buy anything all year. But imagine eating cherries at Christmas! I like to wait, then you get that special feeling – the happiness and the memory.

What’s unique about Campania, the region where you were raised?
I grew up in Minori, on the beautiful Amalfi coast. I only realised how stunning it was after three years away. The freshness of the ingredients, buying food in season, the incredible fish… The sea became my swimming pool again. I go back a lot now. My father could tell the difference between anchovies fished 200 metres from the shore and from two miles out. It took me years to appreciate that.

When you visit, what are your favourite things to do?
When I go back to Italy, the first thing I do is go to the saint of my village, Santa Trofimena. I’m quite religious and respect all religions around the world. I stop by the church first, then I feel like I’m home. The village is quite small, so there’s lots of, “Hello Gennaro, how are you?”

What are your most enduring food memories?
My aunt Maria used to make amazing ragù. It was cooked slowly, slowly, slowly. I’ve tried to do that ragù so many times, but I realised I couldn’t get the flavour because it was the moment: seated with 25 members of the family, including a cat and a dog, around a table, the ragù on a massive plate in the middle, the smell, the adults saying, “Sit properly”… I make good ragù but I can’t recapture that moment.

A new edition of your book on slow cooking is being released this autumn; do you have a favourite slow-cooked dish that surprises people?
Slow cooking is very Italian. One dish I make is with artichoke: dig the inside out and fill with anchovies, capers, tomato, breadcrumbs, then drizzle with olive oil. Put the artichokes in a pot with a stock of carrots, potato, onions and celery, and cook for at least 35 minutes. Pull a leaf and if it comes out easily, it’s ready. You can have it as soup first, then eat the artichoke with a squeeze of lemon. Unbelievable!

How do you feel about being a representative for Italian cuisine in the UK?
I’m proud to have been given the title of ambassador for Italian food. But every Italian who cooks is an ambassador. Many incredible unknown chefs and cooks have given me knowledge and I’m grateful for that.

Why is food so central to the Italian way of life?
Italians express themselves through food. Mangia, mangia! Eat, eat! Enjoy the sun. Be happy. This is what Italy is – it’s not just a glass of wine and ice cream. Italy is everything.

Quick-fire Q&A

What’s your favourite pizza topping?
For me, the best pizza is margherita. Mozzarella, a little basil, tomato and parmesan on top… Simple, beautiful.

What’s your go-to dish to feed friends?
I make lovely vegetable preserves all year round, sometimes with peppers or artichoke. At this time of year I would serve my aubergine preserve – pulped down with wine vinegar, chilli, oregano, garlic and oil. We’d eat it with bruschetta and crostini, some pasta, salami and my homemade sausages. And to drink? A glass of Donna Elvira greco di tufo wine – my goodness, it’s wonderful!

When you’re not cooking… What are your other hobbies?
I come from generations of people hunting, foraging the land. One thing I do is make hazel walking sticks for exploring – I have about 300 in my house! My late friend, Antonio Carluccio, used to do it, too. You give people the stick you’ve carved for them, and it’s blessed because there’s so much thought inside it.

The newly updated edition of Gennaro’s Slow: Easy, Comforting Italian Meals Worth Waiting For (Pavilion £22) is out on 24 October.

Delve into our Italian tour and explore the recipes, wines, cheeses and more that make its regions so distinctive.